Lawns can make or break the overall appearance of your yard. Thick, lush, green grass can give the appearance of a healthy and luxurious lawn while stringy, thin, discolored grass gives the appearance of a lawn that is suffering from some disease or pest infestation.  One such pest that can find safe harbor in your lawn is the chinch bug.  Let’s look at the basics of this annoying lawn pest:  identification, damage and management.

Identification – Chinch bugs are about 1/6 inch long, have gray-black bodies with fine hairs, white wings, and reddish legs. The outer margin of each forewing has a small, black, triangular spot. The wings of the adult are folded flat over their backs. Chinch bug populations frequently go unnoticed because of their small size and coloration, which blends in with turfgrass and thatch. If you are having trouble identifying these pests try a trick recommended by the University of Maine Plant Division.  “A coffee can with both ends cut out can be used to detect the bug and the number present.  Force one end of the can into the soil, fill with water, then watch for chinch bugs to float to the top.”

Damage – Hairy chinch bugs prefer feeding on red fescues, perennial ryegrass, bentgrass, and Kentucky bluegrass. Chinch bug infestations frequently occur in turfgrass with thick thatch that is exposed to full sunlight during periods of hot, dry weather. Chinch bug nymphs and adults cause significant feeding damage by removing plant fluids and by injecting a toxin that causes the grass to yellow, turn reddish brown, and eventually die. Chinch bug damaged areas often coalesce into large patches of dead, brown grass.
Management– Managing these pests can take many different forms from cultural to chemical.  Cultural management techniques may include monitoring the appropriate amount of moisture and fertilizer via soil tests and rain gauges. Removing excess thatch and aeration techniques keep a lawn healthy are free of pests.  In addition, improve soil conditions by top-dressing with organic matter, such as compost or well-aged animal manure.Encourage or purchase commercially available beneficial bugs such as ladybugs and lacewings,which  will feed on a large numbers of these pests. If these methods do not stop your infestation you may need to consult a professional lawn care company such as Pro-Tech to treat your lawn and eradicate the problem.

According to Just Growers, Spider Mites  “are one of the most feared and loathed enemies of all indoor gardeners.”  This feisty garden pest can quickly decimate a greenhouse in a matter of a few short weeks. These small mites suck the juices from plants until the leaves fall off and the plants die. What can growers do to prevent and treat for these pests?  Let’s examine some spider mite facts, prevention and treatment plans.

Symptoms of Spider Mite infestation – Spider mites are common plant pests. Symptoms of injury include flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of leaves. Injury can lead to leaf loss and even plant death. According to the Agriculture Department of the University of Colorado, injury to a plant is caused as the mites feed, bruising the cells with their small, whip like mouthparts and ingesting the sap. Damaged areas typically appear marked with many small, light flecks, giving the plant a somewhat speckled appearance. Look not only for the flecking and change in color but also webbing.  Many spider mites produce webbing, particularly when they occur in high populations.

Prevention – Spider Mites have natural enemies such as small lady beetles, predatory mites, minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs and predatory thrips. Unfortunately insecticides that are overused can kill off these natural predators which allows them to flourish without control.  Try to only use insecticides when necessary to keep these natural predators alive to balance the ecosystem.  Proper irrigation and moisture management can be important cultural controls for spider mites as well.

Treatment – Chemical control of spider mites generally involves pesticides that are specifically developed for spider mite control (miticides or acaricides). Discuss the type and amount of chemical control with a professional lawn company since the choice of product you use also depends on where your plants are in terms of their lifecycle. One product that is good for vegetative plants may not be advisable to use if your plants are heavily flowering.

For many people their lawn is their pride and joy.  It is what they work on from the beginning of the spring season to the very first flakes of winter.  What then, do you do, if disease has taken over part, or worse yet, all of your lawn? There is nothing more frustrating than watching a well manicured lawn fall victim to some kind of grass fungus. Lawn fungus disease can make a lawn look unsightly with patches of brown.  Let’s look at symptoms, treatment and prevention of grass fungus to help you maintain that beautiful lawn you worked so hard to nurture.

While there are several types of fungus that can afflict a lawn, the most common are Leaf Spot, Melting Out and Necrotic Ring Spot.  Once you know what type of fungus you have, eliminating it will be easier.

Types and Identification-

• Leaf Spot – This type of fungus is identified by the purple and brown spots that appear on the grass blades. If left untreated, it can travel down the blade of grass and cause the roots to rot. This will result in a thin looking lawn. Common treatment methods include good care techniques for your grass.  For example water the grass only in the morning so it has all day to dry out instead of nighttime that allows moisture to fester in the grass stem and roots. Fungicide and proper fertilizer also help prevent fungus from forming.
• Melting Out – These brown spots quickly spread to the crown and cause round dead, thatch spots in the lawn. The most common treatment is to use fungicide and dethatch the affected area.
• Necrotic Ring Spot – This fungus is most common in the spring and fall and causes reddish-brown rings in the grass. Common treatment includes vigorous dethatching and lowering the amount of nitrogen fertilizer.

Prevention – One of the best ways to deal with fungus is to prevent it from taking hold in the first place. Some prevention methods include:

• Aerate – Annually aerate the lawn to make sure oxygen and nutrients are properly getting to the root system.
• Fertilize – Both over and under fertilizing  can promote some fungal diseases. Choose organic, slow-release fertilizers for your lawn, and apply them exactly as instructed.
• Soil Test – Annually check the nutrient deficiencies that can lead to stressed lawns and disease.
• Mowing practices – Follow good mowing practices by keeping the blade sharp and clean.  Mow only one third of the height each mowing session.
• Watering – Water your lawn in the early morning and and use a rain gauge to keep track of how much water your grass is really getting so that you are not overwatering or underwatering.
• Dethatch – Remove thick buildups of thatch in your lawn to allow the soil to breathe.